Photography by Jeff Tobin
Destination "Puerto Rico with Regina & Jeff Tobin
Sixth Street
Sixth Street
Jeff and I visit Puerto Rico from Christmas through the New Year. I grew up there and my family has a condo in Condado, a lovely beachside community in San Juan. This year, due to Covid, we delayed our trip and went in early March. It’s a beautiful time of year, with temperatures in the mid-80s and clear skies except for the occasional passing shower. Generally, our daily activities include a healthy dose of beach time, playing beach paddle ball, taking long walks and spending afternoons or evenings enjoying the narrow, colorful streets of historic Old San Juan, just a few miles from our home. This year, Jeff’s sister, Debbie, joined us for a week, and we had a great time showing her some of our favorite places. Plus, we found some new finds. Here are the highlights.
Calle Cerra art walk in Santurce.
The Calle Cerra area in Santurce had fallen on hard times but is currently being transformed into a hip, vibrant arts district. Helping to lead the way is an annual art street festival called Santurce es Ley. Buildings, homes, and even a water tower are now giant canvases for murals by some the island’s best-known artists. These murals will remain on display for years to the joy of natives and tourists. We had never been to this art walk before, but a friend told us it’s a “must see”. They were right.
The Calle Cerra area in Santurce had fallen on hard times but is currently being transformed into a hip, vibrant arts district. Helping to lead the way is an annual art street festival called Santurce es Ley. Buildings, homes, and even a water tower are now giant canvases for murals by some the island’s best-known artists. These murals will remain on display for years to the joy of natives and tourists. We had never been to this art walk before, but a friend told us it’s a “must see”. They were right.
Old San Juan (OSJ).
There are a lot of things to do in OSJ, but here are a few things we especially enjoyed in this trip. Near where the cruise ships dock is the Paseo De La Princesa, an unbelievably picturesque promenade that winds along the water just outside the historic walls of Old San Juan and finishes at the famous Spanish fort of El Morro. The grounds are impressive, and when tourists visit, this is the fort they generally tour. But we’ve always found the Spanish fort that’s literally next door to El Morro, San Cristóbol, offers a more interesting and comprehensive tour. Another nearby fort, San Jerónimo, is smaller than the other two, but we stopped in and learned how, in its day, it played a vital role in the island’s defenses.
There are a lot of things to do in OSJ, but here are a few things we especially enjoyed in this trip. Near where the cruise ships dock is the Paseo De La Princesa, an unbelievably picturesque promenade that winds along the water just outside the historic walls of Old San Juan and finishes at the famous Spanish fort of El Morro. The grounds are impressive, and when tourists visit, this is the fort they generally tour. But we’ve always found the Spanish fort that’s literally next door to El Morro, San Cristóbol, offers a more interesting and comprehensive tour. Another nearby fort, San Jerónimo, is smaller than the other two, but we stopped in and learned how, in its day, it played a vital role in the island’s defenses.
A family friend of ours owns a music club in OSJ that is as beautiful to the eyes as it is the ears—the Cannon Club. It features everything from classical to jazz and is a stunning place to have dinner or a drink. Another favorite music haunt of ours for dinner or drinks in OSJ is Carli’s Bistro, owned by Carli Muñoz. In his younger years he played piano touring with the Beach Boys, but these days you’ll find him behind the keyboard at Carli’s most evenings.
Luquillo.
This beachside community lies about 45-minutes east of San Juan. I have an aunt who lives here, and this year she invited us to join her in the annual Luquillo St Patrick’s Day parade. It was a blast! Even our dog, Rico, who is a rescue from Puerto Rico, participated. In true St. Paddy’s Day fashion, the parade ended at a local bar where everyone continued the celebration with lots of green beer.
This beachside community lies about 45-minutes east of San Juan. I have an aunt who lives here, and this year she invited us to join her in the annual Luquillo St Patrick’s Day parade. It was a blast! Even our dog, Rico, who is a rescue from Puerto Rico, participated. In true St. Paddy’s Day fashion, the parade ended at a local bar where everyone continued the celebration with lots of green beer.
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In the evening we were treated to live Latin Jazz at the C-Note, owned by Grammy Award winning musician Charlie Sepulveda.
Hacienda Siesta Alegre.
I grew up on a 36-acre farm overlooking the tropical rain forest of El Yunque. Our home was a modest affair with million-dollar views. The couple who purchased the property from my parents, Greg and Linda, have turned it into an award-winning event space for weddings and corporate retreats called Hacienda Siesta Alegre. It’s truly breathtaking. They also own and operate a large racehorse rehabilitation facility on the property with dozens of stables and training equipment. And just recently they opened a whiskey bar/restaurant near the property entrance that takes advantage of those million-dollar views. Pictures don’t do this place justice. They’re continually improving it, and whenever we’re on the island and stop by for a visit, it looks more amazing. The only thing remaining from my childhood home (besides the view) is the tile swimming pool.
Beach.
San Juan is blessed with many wonderful beaches, but one of our favorites is located just steps from our condo, beautiful Ocean Park Beach. It not only attracts sun worshippers, you’ll find surfing, kite surfing, beach paddle tennis and lots of happy doggies. For $20, you can rent two lounge chairs and a large umbrella for the entire day. You’ll also find friendly vendors who walk the beach pulling their carts selling fruit flavored ice cream, water, ice cold beer and food.
Life doesn’t get much better than this! Another beach we visited for the first time this trip and have fallen in love with is Escambron Beach. A 15-minute drive west from the big hotels in the Condado tourist area, it has golden sand, lots of shade palm trees and several snorkeling areas. We also spent a relaxing morning kayaking around the Condado lagoon, located right in the heart of the main tourist area. Besides kayaks, they have night kayaking and paddle boarding if that’s more your speed.
San Juan is blessed with many wonderful beaches, but one of our favorites is located just steps from our condo, beautiful Ocean Park Beach. It not only attracts sun worshippers, you’ll find surfing, kite surfing, beach paddle tennis and lots of happy doggies. For $20, you can rent two lounge chairs and a large umbrella for the entire day. You’ll also find friendly vendors who walk the beach pulling their carts selling fruit flavored ice cream, water, ice cold beer and food.
Life doesn’t get much better than this! Another beach we visited for the first time this trip and have fallen in love with is Escambron Beach. A 15-minute drive west from the big hotels in the Condado tourist area, it has golden sand, lots of shade palm trees and several snorkeling areas. We also spent a relaxing morning kayaking around the Condado lagoon, located right in the heart of the main tourist area. Besides kayaks, they have night kayaking and paddle boarding if that’s more your speed.
“And yes, I did take a real estate phone call while kayaking. It was a workday after all”
Bacoa Restaurant.
Billed as a farm-to-table restaurant, Bacoa is off the beaten track, for sure, but well worth it. We’d heard about this place from my brother, who sent me this article that raved about it. The drive from San Juan took about an hour with traffic. We hoped it would be worth the hassle. It was, and then some. The cocktails and entrees were remarkable. I can still taste the Puerto Rican tostones made with breadfruit. We’ll be back.
Billed as a farm-to-table restaurant, Bacoa is off the beaten track, for sure, but well worth it. We’d heard about this place from my brother, who sent me this article that raved about it. The drive from San Juan took about an hour with traffic. We hoped it would be worth the hassle. It was, and then some. The cocktails and entrees were remarkable. I can still taste the Puerto Rican tostones made with breadfruit. We’ll be back.
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As I wrap up the highlights of our trip, I’d like to recommend a Puerto Rico travel book. It was written by a friend of mine who’s an accomplished travel writer. She offers lots of great ideas for places to visit and presents them with just the right amount of detail. You can buy her book here on Amazon.
Go "Puerto Rico with Regina and Jeff Tobin Issue XVI
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