GO - Portugal & Paris with Chris Hune | Issue XLVI

GO
Portugal & Paris

Museo de Serrallves Garden

From Chris:
About a year ago I was having a conversation with my friend, Hyla Griesdorn, a former German Village resident. I told her I really wanted to get back to Paris as I had heard the Pompidou Centre (a favorite contemporary museum) was closing in 2025 for a 5 year renovation. It also houses a favorite restaurant “Georges” on its rooftop with spectacular views of the city. We had discussed a European trip before but this time, we had a purpose. During that same timeframe, a number of friends were also trekking to Portugal (which neither of us had visited), so we decided to make it a Portugal/Paris trip!

HISTORIC LISBON

Belem Tower

Monument of the Discoveries

We decided to do 4 nights each in Lisbon, Porto and then onto Paris. We used Airbnb at each location which worked out perfectly. We had some advice from neighbors who had previously visited so we felt fully armed. We opted to let each day take us where it will. And we got our steps in!

The Equestrian Statue of King Joseph I - The Reformer

Hyla before the Rua Augusta Arch

Lisbon is very walkable but hilly. We were prepared. It is beautiful city with contrasts of historic and contemporary architecture. We opted for two different bus tours, one for the historic areas, and other for modern Lisbon. Neither disappointed. And as veteran shoppers, we couldn’t resist one of the great street markets.

Alfama, Lisbon

Chris with the Santa Justa Lift in the background.

Tagus River Bridge, designed by the same firm as the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

We also booked a beautiful sunset sailboat ride one evening which happened to include the moon rise as well.

MODERN LISBON

English artist Rocket01 “The World is in your Hand”

FOOD in LISBON & PORTO

Pastel de Nata - famed Portugal egg custard tart pastry

Of course dining was mostly about seafood and salted cod is the native dish. We discovered it is typically served with chick peas, roasted leeks, fennel and potatoes. Delicious and served generously enough that we could take it back to the Airbnb for another meal. And of course we can’t forget the Pastel de Nata (custard in puff pastry) that is available on every street corner.

PORTO

We left Lisbon by train to Porto, which is very efficient and once we deposited our bags at the next location, we headed off to explore the seaside port. Porto is equally as beautiful and again, we hopped a boat to enjoy the view from the river looking upon the city.

Janet Eschelman "She Changes". The same artist that created "Currents" on Gay and High Street.

Much of our time was searching and discovering art features. First, the Janet Eshelman installation “She Changes”. It was a treat to discover her work there, to compare to our own downtown, “Currents” and ironically, she also has an installation in St. Petersburg called “Bending Arc”.

MUSEO de SERRALLVES in Porto

We spent most of our second day in Porto at the Museo de Serralves for the Yayoi Kusama exhibit. There was much to see in the Art Deco home and on the property plus a lovely lunch.

On display, Yayoi Kusama, a fascinating artist that came up through the 60s and 70s with Andy Warhol. Her many styles were exquisite and unique and continued into the adjacent Serralves Park which also provided so many points of interest.
Side note, Cyndi Lauper is featuring her art in her current tour.

Our final day we opted for a tour of the Duoro River Valley, complete with wine/porto tastings, a wonderful lunch and another boat tour. An amazing look at the various vineyards which line the river and how they are beautifully positioned.

PARIS

And then, onto Paris…we stayed in the Le Marais district with shops and cafes literally outside our door.

We set out to walk to Notre Dame to see the progress on its immense restoration. While the cranes are still present, the goal is to have it open by December. Fingers Crossed.

We then headed up the Seine (on foot) to get re-familiarized with that part of the city. We ended up at the Eiffel Tower, remnants of the Olympics are still present. It never ceases to impress.

The fabulous Pompidou Centre and Georges restaurant were superb!

At delicous Georges, sadly it was a foggy, rainy day so views weren’t in the cards.

However, as we sat down to our table, a variety of gorgeous young models wearing high end couture arrived, photographers in tow. We discovered it was Paris Fashion Week. and they were doing a photo shoot in the restaurant. I called it our “Emily in Paris” moment.